Introduction
In my last post, I lambasted modern razors, which are
excessively expensive and fictitiously superior to what your dad or grandfather
used to use. I should probably blog next on a completely unrelated theme, but I
have stumbled onto another economic absurdity that is sticking in my craw. This
time, though, I’m going to exhort you to possibly spend more than you may be now.
I’m talking about maple syrup. Don’t pretend you don’t care
about this all-important foodstuff.
Grade A vs. Grade B
For somewhere around a couple hundred years, maple syrup—I
mean the real deal, not that imitation stuff—came in two grades: A and B.
Grade A was better and cost more. It’s the better product, that naturally rises
to the top when maple syrup is boiled. Grade A syrup is to Grade B what cream
is to milk.
Now, when I say Grade A is better, I’m not just basing this
on it traditionally costing more money. After all, cheap razor blades are
better than expensive ones, and cheap- to mid-priced Mexican restaurants are
often better than the more upscale places (which are often just annoying). I’m
basing my statement on having done a highly scientific blind taste test onsite
at a maple syrup producing facility in Vermont back in 1994. Here is the result
of my test, from the report I made right afterward:
[My wife and I] conducted blind taste tests comparing Grade A Fancy, Grade B, and our own Shurfine Imitation Maple Flavor Syrup [purchased for reasons of economy during an 8-month bike tour]. We both preferred Grade A, then fake, with Grade B coming in a distant last. (After our Shur Fine ran out, we got some Maple Jack that's 20% real syrup: that is, likely 20% Grade B, cut expertly in the lab by large corporations that know what tastes good.)
Here is photographic proof of this taste test:
My report included this tidbit:
I’ve heard people say, “I’ve tried real maple syrup, and I prefer the kind you buy in the store that’s artificially flavored.” My theory about this oddity is that those who prefer fake syrup had been served Grade B at a touristy restaurant. It makes sense for a restaurant to serve Grade B syrup since it’s not only cheaper, but will impress tourists more: they’ll say, “Wow, that’s so different, oh, yes, this is the real thing, we’re experiencing the real thing, oh my, what a fabulous vacation.”
In the last few years, however, Vermont—the top U.S. maple
syrup producer—discovered that a lot of people actually prefer Grade B. Perhaps
some of this is because it’s so obviously different from Mrs. Butterworth’s and
Log Cabin. Maybe its stronger flavor just seems more authentic. Whatever the
reason (and you can see the Appendix below for some theories), the Vermont
maple syrup producers evidently realized they were leaving money on the table
by using the phrase “Grade B.” Why admit something is inferior when you don’t
have to? This brings us to….
The disappearance of
Grade B
Last fall during a visit to my hometown of Boulder, Colorado I was shopping at an overpriced, Whole-Foods-y grocery chain called Vitamin Cottage
when I discovered that their different grades of maple syrup were all called
Grade A. One label said something to the effect of “formerly known as Grade B.”
I asked the cashier about this but she was clueless. I decided it must be a
Boulder thing. (My brother Max, who lives in Boulder, has always preferred
Grade B syrup himself.)
Well, I’ve done some research and have discovered (click
here for details) that Vermont has refined the gradation scheme for maple syrup.
Now, all maple syrup is Grade A, even
the Grade C stuff that wasn’t formerly available for retail sale (being used
only in the manufacture of food). This scoring revision is a little like my
daughters’ kiddie soccer teams that gave every kid a trophy, even the ones who
never broke into a run or even attempted to kick the ball. Here’s a schematic
showing the new nomenclature.
When you think about it, this just makes perfect sense. Why
on earth would you badmouth a product with a derisive label like “Grade B” when
you don’t have to? Why create a hierarchy that lowers the price of your
lower-end product? I’ll bet the dairy industry is kicking themselves for using
the word “milk” when they could call it “light cream” and charge more money for
it.
But does the maple
syrup industrial complex charge more for Grade B Grade A Dark with Robust Taste now? Well, it’s really hard to
compare now, because not all manufacturers provide the complete label. Look at
this stuff, which is as dark as crude oil:
Its label says, “Grade A 100% Pure Maple Syrup (from the Sap
of Maple Trees).” You know, as opposed to “from the Urine of Pregnant Beavers”
or “from the Runoff of Feed Lots.” All those extra words about what “maple
syrup” means, but they couldn’t manage to fit in the “Dark with Robust Taste” part of the label, or—more likely—“Very Dark with Strong Taste,” whichever
of the two it is. This incomplete labeling is certainly deliberate and opportunistic;
it gives them the ability to charge $9 for a 16-ounce bottle of what would be Grade B or even Grade C syrup in the original, non-muddled nomenclature.
When I try to compare two varieties of a single
manufacturer’s product, I get nowhere. Looking at the Anderson’s products at Target, it appears the lighter and darker varieties cost the same, but I can’t be
sure because it’s not clear how to put one or the other in your shopping cart.
Looking at Amazon, I was totally buried in unhelpful labels and packaging options. Suffice to say, it’s no longer a straightforward proposition to get a
lower-end product for less money. All has been obfuscated.
Expansion of
relabeling opportunity
I’m sure it’s only a matter of time before other industries
catch on and carry out relabeling campaigns of their own. Here are some
examples of low-lying fruit:
- Grade A Beef for Strong Immune Systems
- Multivitamin for Those Preferring Vitamin C Only
- Chicken Breast from the Leg
- Whole Wheat Bread – Reduced Fiber Version
- Extra-Strength Tylenol in Low Dose
- MBA Degree in High School Equivalency
- SPF 50 Sunscreen for Indoor Use
- Express Mail Ground Delivery Option
- Black Belt in Karate – Beginner’s Online Tutorial Edition
Appendix – Is Grade
B Grade A Dark with Robust Taste
better for you?
Part of the popularity of the syrup formerly known as Grade
B is that it’s been recommended for the “Master Cleanse” detox regimen, which
consists of fasting except for drinking tea and lemonade made with maple syrup
and cayenne pepper. The originator of this cleanse, a charlatan named Stanley
Burroughs, advised in his self-published book that you should use Grade B syrup
because it is “less refined.” (Charlatan? Yes. As mentioned in the MasterCleanse Wikipedia article, “According to the Harvard Medical School, the laxative component of the diet
can lead to dehydration and electrolyte loss as well as impaired bowel function.”)
A self-interested purveyor of maple syrup, the Maple Valley Coop, promotes the Master Cleanse regimen and applauds Burroughs for recommending the
syrup formerly known as Grade B, on the basis of it being less refined. But this other website explains that all grades of maple syrup are pure and unrefined. Can we trust
this second website? Yep. My own tour of the maple syrup producing facility showed me
that they produce all the syrup without adding anything … all they do is
extract the sap and boil it. Here are the notes I took on this:
Tubes run directly from the trees to a giant storage tank, from which the sap trickles down (by gravity) to a giant open topped boiling tank that has many different maze-like channels in it. The sap runs through the channels, driven by the current of the new sap flowing in, and by the time it makes it through to the final channel, it’s been boiled long enough that it’s the proper consistency and thickness of syrup: that is, a gallon of it weighs 11 pounds (3 pounds more than a gallon of water!). Then, it’s separated into various grades by some process that was never explained to us very well … something like fractional distillation, I suppose. This yields the various grades, from Grade B (i.e., crude, and “suitable for cooking,” as they described it) all the way up to Grade A Fancy (the best).
Others have also claimed that Grade B is better for you. A
website called “Nourishing Our Children” claims here that “The potency and richness of Grade B maple syrup amplifies its health
benefits.” This is also nonsense; this Cornell University study concluded, “No research has demonstrated any differential health benefits related to this variation.” Meanwhile, common sense tells us
that maple syrup is a damn condiment. Nobody should consider it a staple with
which we nourish our children.
Speaking of which, I’m still a fan of the good stuff—the
Grade A that has always been called
Grade A—but you know what I gave my own kids when they were younger? Imitation
syrup, like Log Cabin. Why? Because little kids are lame, and pour like a quart
of syrup on a single pancake, leaving most of it behind on the plate. I refuse
to waste my money on such behavior. Besides, they liked Log Cabin just fine—and
why shouldn’t they have? I know firsthand it tastes better than Grade A Dark with Robust Taste.
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