Introduction
This post is
about when bike parts fight. If you like
bikes and bike gear, and enjoy accumulating bike lore to carry around in your
head like kids’ school pictures in your wallet, read on. If, on the other hand, you can’t be bothered
with worldly stuff like consumer products and bike repairs, and prefer to think
about the human spirit and how to calm it down and give it respite from the
more-more-more, faster-faster-faster wheel of life, well then, read on. This post is about both—or, rather, the
unlikely nexus of the two. Sort of,
anyway.
Bike noises
Bikes often
make weird noises that are hard to track down.
When the noises become chronic, you’re in a bind. If you’re a teenager who loves wrenching, you
tear everything apart and rebuild it all—lather, rinse, repeat—until the bike
quiets down. (My brothers and I used to
spend hours trimming cable housing and grinding the ends flush until the action
of our brakes was glass-smooth. But it’s
been decades since that decadence was possible, and now even my best bike has
crunchy cable action.)
If you are
an adult, have money, and are heartless, you take your noisy bike to a shop and
make it the mechanics’ problem. In my bike shop days the “weird noise” was a curse—the scourge of our industry. It can take forever to tease out the cause of
a noise, and you can’t exactly charge $100 just to make a bike quieter. The unlucky mechanic would often give up and
ask the others for advice. A common
response? “I say we take off and nuke the entire bike from orbit. It’s the
only way to be sure.”
So what do I
do with a noisy bike now, being too cheap and proud to outsource my repair, but
too busy to worry about every little sound?
Well, I differentiate between harmless and harmful.
The really
familiar noises are often harmless: a
tinny thwick once per pedal revolution can be as simple as your shoe hitting the
front derailleur cable end, or a shoelace hitting the bike. A clicky noise you hear when you ride out of
the saddle could be spokes rubbing together like a cricket’s legs. A creak that presents itself under hard
pedaling can be a bottom bracket problem. A loud creaky click when you’re in the saddle
is probably your seatpost where it clamps the saddle, or where it goes into the
frame. A clickier creak than this, that
you hear in the saddle and out, can be a loose chainring bolt. Squeaking during pedaling can be your cleats
(one friend fixes this with Chapstick).
A loud once-per-pedal-revolution click, like a metronome, can be invisible
grit between the shoulder of the pedal axle and the crankarm. These are generally annoying but
non-dangerous problems.
Any noise
involving a tire is potentially dangerous.
And any sound that’s unfamiliar to you and your riding pals should be
investigated. I’m particularly
suspicious of the duller, deeper sounds, that to me suggest the
underworld. And if you ever hear a
strange deep crunchy clunk, like one beat of a rumble, which you can feel in
the drivetrain as you pedal, and
you’re on an old bike that has a freewheel instead of a cassette, be
afraid. Be very afraid.
Freewheels
To me, the
freewheel is the part of the bike that was never perfected. Rather, the technology was scuttled entirely
during the early ‘80s when Shimano invented the cassette freehub. For the newbies out there who have only ever
known freehubs, the freewheel was its own self-contained deal, with its own
bearings, that screwed on to the hub body.
The design was terrible because the rear wheel hub’s bearings, on the
right side, weren’t at the end of the axle.
They were closer to the middle, to make room for the freewheel. Thus, dudes broke rear axles all the
time. And the freewheels were just never
made very well.
Freewheels
used to explode here and there, seemingly for no reason. When I was bike touring with my mom and my
brother Bryan in Canada in 1983, we came upon a fellow tourist stranded by this
affliction. Bryan recovered all the ball
bearings he could—there are gobs of them, and they’re tiny—and screwed the
thing back together with some grease he happened to have in his pannier. Grease makes freewheels nice and quiet—so
much so that this guy called it “good as new.”
Bryan said, “No, don’t be fooled.
Get to a bike shop as soon as you can—that thing is a time bomb.” (A friend of ours from the shop once repacked
a roadside cyclist’s freewheel with a banana.
Presumably that guy didn’t need the time bomb lecture.)
A freewheel
has pawls in it, typically only two of them, that allow it to move
independently of the wheel in one direction (i.e., coasting) while engaging
with the wheel in the other. The full
load of your pedaling is thus concentrated on these very small bits of
metal. Modern freehub designs still use
pawls, but I think they’re made better.
Maybe it’s an economics thing:
when you’re making a $1,000 wheelset you can afford to do everything
right, whereas the margins on a $30 freewheel were probably never very good.
It was about
23 years ago that I learned the hard way about pawls. My mountain bike had been making this low,
grumbling, subtle clonking sound, and I could feel it when I pedaled. I put up with it for a long time, and then
discovered very abruptly what it was.
One pawl had broken, hence the noise.
It was when the other pawl broke, and the freewheel no longer engaged
the wheel, that the problem became obvious.
Naturally, it was under full out-of-the-saddle pedaling pressure that
the second pawl broke, so my pedaling thrust—suddenly unopposed—threw my weight
violently to one side and I went down.
This was in traffic. I looked up
to see the impressive grille of a Mercedes Benz come to a stop just a couple
feet from me. Good brakes on those cars
… I got lucky.
Cheapage
When I heard
the noises and felt the crunching in Full Slab’s freewheel, I didn’t mess
around. This freewheel was a piece of
junk to begin with, and had been running strong for at least 20 years. I don’t even know how I came into possession
of that crappy a component. It was an
all-black, bottom-of-the-line model and surely its manufacturer expected it to
spend its life sitting, cobweb-covered, in a garage, instead of seeing heavy
action.
Ditching
that freewheel didn’t, however, mean buying a new one. (Maybe I considered such a purchase, but only
in a reckless, impulsive way, like when you get the sudden notion to steer your
car into oncoming traffic or off a cliff.)
Nobody makes an even halfway-decent freewheel anymore, because all
halfway-decent bikes have freehubs now.
Plus, I’m cheap. And I knew I’d
find something in The Box that I could use.
What box, you ask? You mean you
don’t have a Magic Box chock-full of awesome (if obsolete) bike parts just
waiting for an afterlife on your commuter bike?
What, did your wife finally make you get rid of it?
I settled on
a great-looking old Suntour Winner Pro that’s almost a corn cob. I used to race on gearing like this,
full-time. No hill seemed too steep for
a 19- or 21-tooth cog. Then I moved to
the Berkeley area with its monster climbs, and more importantly I started
getting older, so I had to gradually go to larger and larger cogs, which is to
say gradually increase my own disgrace, to the point where I actually browsed
online the other day to see what a decent compact crank goes for. (Rest assured, it was a moment of weakness,
and the breathtakingly high price of such a thing quickly snapped me back to
reality.) Anyway, it’s great to finally
have a properly small cluster on one of my bikes. Check it out:
But my
problem was only half solved. You can’t
replace just the freewheel if it’s over twenty years old—you need a new chain,
too. Chains and freewheels are enablers,
the classic co-dependents: a chain as old
as mine would skip on any freewheel except the one I just replaced, and
vice-versa. The two had ruined each
other; their relationship was as dysfunctional as George and Martha’s in “Who’s Afraid of Virginia Woolf?” They had each
other because nobody else would have them.
In a perfect
world, I’d have a Sedisport chain, still in its paper wrapper, just waiting to
be installed to match the new-ish Suntour freewheel.
Ah, the
Sedisport. That was the working-man’s
chain. All black. Didn’t shift particularly well, but didn’t
stretch much either. It was a badge of
honor, my brothers and friends and I felt, to use that chain even on our
pride-and-joy race bikes. A Sedis chain
cost $8 retail. Even though a bike’s
chain has over 400 moving parts, that $8 model was plenty good enough. It was, in fact, the cheapest bike part I
ever put on my bike, unless you count mere accessories like the $2 Benotto bar
tape and $2 Velox bar plugs.
Alas, my
Magic Box didn’t have a Sedis chain.
Just an all-black Shimano 9-speed HG chain. I had a strong feeling the HG wouldn’t work
very well, but still managed to be hopeful.
In fact, this could be great, I told myself.
When chain slippage is kind of cool
I figured if
this chain slipped just a bit, that might be pleasantly nostalgic. During my teen years, I raced a lot against
Dale Stetina’s 7-Eleven junior team, easily the best in Colorado, and in ’86
they were using these wacky freewheels—I think they were Regina or Maillard—that
had spacing issues. There was always one
shift that none of the 7-Eleven guys could get right. The chain would find this Never Never Land
between cogs and slip a few times, making a light hissing/ringing sound, before
engaging the next cog. I always enjoyed
that. It was the only thing about that
team that wasn’t superior to me.
One time, I
even got to experience this slippage for myself. Warming up for the time trial at a stage race
in Aspen, I punctured. I had just
minutes before my start and no spare wheel.
I went over to the 7-Eleven van and my friend John loaned me a
wheel. “Sorry, it’s only got a 20!” he
grinned. I think most guys were using at
least a 23-tooth large cog for Suicide Hill.
It was going to be a bitch humping that wheel up the hill, but what
could I do?
As I shifted
gears during the flat part of the race, my chain slipped between two cogs, and
made the same ringing sound that the Slurpees’ bikes made. I really felt like I’d arrived, like this was
some natural progression toward becoming one of them. On the climb itself, of course, I was doing
no shifting at all—I was well overgeared in the 20-tooth cog. Seeing my struggle, a guy yelled, “Come over
on the sidewalk!” I guess he figured it
would offer less rolling resistance, or there was gravel in the road or
something. So I went up on the sidewalk,
and the (albeit modest) crowd there parted before me, furthering the
king-for-a-day impression the chain slippage had given me. That ended up being one of my best-ever
individual time trials.
The Zen drivetrain
So, it
really seemed like a chain that slipped now and then, especially on my
commuting bike, wouldn’t be the end of the world. Sure, it might slow me down a bit, but how
bad could it be? Well, I took Full Slab
out for a test ride after installing the HG chain, and discovered to my horror
that the chain skipped in just about every damn gear. Only the largest cog was spared, for reasons
I can’t quite fathom without applying some serious brain power to the job. (Perhaps my readers can explain this, or
better yet, bicker about it amongst yourselves.)
So,
naturally, I went right out and bought a proper chain, didn’t I? Well, no.
It was night. The shops were
closed. And the rigors of my
working-stiff/parenting lifestyle made it impossible—well, okay, difficult—to
get around to this errand. I wanted to
call around and find a shop that had an actual Sedisport chain rusting away in
its original, albeit moldering, wrapper, that they’d sell me cheap. Of course, such lofty projects invite
procrastination. The ensuing civil war
that raged within my drivetrain was basically inevitable.
But
actually, I discovered something about the new setup. If I just refrained from shoving on the
pedals, and accelerated exceedingly gradually, I could keep the chain from
skipping. I developed the capability of
coaxing speed out of the bike, rather than just stomping on the pedals as I’ve
been doing for 30+ years. Since most of
my commuting these days consists of escorting my older daughter to school in the
early morning, and she’s on a 3-speed bike called a Lazy Susan with
remarkably slack frame angles, a big rack with a heavy pannier and a violin
lashed to it, and giant balloon tires, the pace has been mellow. The whole thing has been really pleasant and
peaceful. The narrow chain is whisper-quiet
on those wide-spaced cogs, especially compared to my old setup with that
grumbling freewheel and old, chattering chain.
There’s
actually some precedent to a cyclist hobbling himself intentionally. I give you the guys who ride fixed gears in
the winter, to improve their pedal stroke or some such thing. This isn’t so common in the Berkeley area,
where we have serious hills, but I remember seeing real road riders on fixed
gears when I lived in San Francisco. (Note
that roadies on fixed gears shouldn’t be confused with hipsters on their
fixies, many of which bikes are actually just one-speeds—i.e., they can coast. Hipsters, who also do totally brainless
things like smoking and riding at high speeds with no helmet in urban areas, certainly
don’t deserve to be copied by anyone.)
Could this
skipping problem teach me to slow down and just enjoy the bike? To embrace the Lazy Susan ethos? Could this be some kind of Karate Kid
learning opportunity, to teach me patience, and tranquility, and smoothness? To generally just Let It Be? In short, was this a Zen drivetrain I’d
stumbled upon?
For weeks,
half out of laziness (i.e., avoidance of a bike shop errand) and half as
experiment, I’ve tried out the Zen drivetrain.
It has been illuminating. After
having recently watched twenty competitors ride away from me during the Everest Challenge, I’ve gotten to watch my daughter ride away from me on her Lazy
Susan, maxing out her 3rd gear, while I gradually brought Full Slab up to cruising
speed. I’ve literally coasted toward
green lights, knowing they’d be yellow before I got there and I’d just have to
wait at the light, frozen in time. I’ve
consoled my impatient side by pausing to appreciate how quiet my bike is, how
smooth the pedal stroke.
Yeah, right
But no way
could I tolerate that forever. Accelerating
as slowly as a train is one thing when I’m riding with my daughter, but when
I’m riding home, or to Bart, I demand the right to step it up. I’ve paid enough dues as it is, having
commuted for years on the Arseless, my Triumph 3-speed. Its flaky Sturmey Archer 3-speed hub has a
nasty tendency to slip out of 2nd gear, usually with painful and dangerous
results. No way am I going to accept
such drivetrain shenanigans on two bikes. So, when I was buying a Ksyrium spoke for my race bike the other
day (and errand that absolutely cannot be put off), and the mechanic asked if I
need anything else, I said, “Yeah, I’ve got an old Winner Pro freewheel that’s
fighting with a 9-speed chain. Got an
old Sedisport or anything?” Without
moving from his stool he reached under the counter and produced a SRAM 6-7-8
speed chain, the modern incarnation of the Sedis.
It’s like he was just waiting for me to ask for it. So, 17 painful dollars later, it’s mine.
Of course, owning
the chain is a far cry from it actually making it onto Full Slab. The garage is torn apart, and it’s been
raining, and my life itself has a lot of moving parts. Who knows, maybe by the time I get around to
installing that chain, I’ll have already achieved enlightenment!